We left Lilongwe later than we should have so we’re riding in the dusk/dark for the last hour and a half. It gets dark In Malawi by 6pm at this time of year which seems odd to a Canadian programmed for long summer evenings. Alibe can’t drive very fast because the frequent towns are full of people at dusk. It all looks so exciting but we’ve got places to go. There are also lots of people walking or cycling along the highway and all the drivers slow down and yield to them, so different from Uganda, the Warm Heart at work.
The morning comes quickly to the sound of waves along the beach and fishermen pulling in their nets. Most accommodation up here is by the magnificent lake and it seems a bit like paradise. You can stay in a western style resort for $200 a night or B&B at an “African” resort for $25. I always choose the latter because of the “extras”…the staff’s kids hang around and talk to you, “real” i.e. local food, no tourists, and the beach is used as a walkway and so a great place to chat with local folks. Our room also came with its own gecko who politely left after gentle prodding with our empty water bottle.
The day is another great one and we hook up with Allan and Laban at the Chinteche office and visit a number of water projects that CPAR is working on with UNICEF. The WASH program either rehabilitates old broken down water points or sets up new ‘systems” in villages or at schools. The basics are the same as in Tanzania…a well, improved latrines, handwash stations, education and local ownership. At Chilala School, Head Master Gilbert Kuanda is an enthusiastic host as he reveals an additional benefit…a huge garden irrigated by runoff from the well.
The day ends too soon at Msindu waterpoint. The well has been broken for 10 years and today it will pump water again. The villagers all chip in to help the engineer and water committee replace the broken rods. At about 4:30, committee chairman Alec Phiri and his group pump out the first gushes of clean water.
87 year old village elder Mtanda Mula is there to join in the celebration.
Even better, local merchants have been educated to stock well parts so that future problems can be fixed immediately.
- Holding on to Chinteche…bridge without a railing
When we hit Salima the southernmost beach town though, I can’t wait to get to Lilongwe. Alibe and Joseph our great travelling companions for the past 3 days valiantly try to coax me to a chambo dinner. I opt for a bag of Malawi nuts.
Our flight home leaves at 2:30am, the trip is over, I’m resigned to the reality.